Crack of dawn, two long bus rides, a town I've never set foot in ... but, there I am, at the Redwood City DMV as they open the door at 8am.

I ask for DL-44, supposedly a preliminary step to receiving DL-238 (name & gender change). (I'm referred to as "ma'am" by several clerks, so far so good, I think.)

Wait, though. Sure enough, the clerk informs me ("ma'am" he calls me) I'm supposed to go the Social Security office first.

No, I say - I talked to the DMV main branch supervisor on the phone and I was assured this was my first step. I present him with a slip of paper containing the main branch contact.

Suddenly, it's "Here's the form to fill out." Cool.

I then (timidly) inquire "Do I write my old name and gender here or my new name and gender?"

"Just write the name and gender you want," he says.

I nearly faint.

Over to the next desk. Thumbprint. Signature. Verify spelling of name and address. Photo.

"That'll be $22, miss. Your ID card should arrive by mail within two weeks."

Again, I nearly faint.