Corset wearers: I need your help!

[Alayna]

I'm trying to fine-tune my drafting in the bust area and wanted some opinions from corset-wearers on this board. It's a survey of sorts, and needs some explanations first...

Problem

Many corset-makers shy away from making male-overbusts (even some of the most skilled and reputable ones refuse to do it because it would make their work look bad). The main reason for this I can see is because of the male torso. A woman's rib-cage is shaped like a cone whereas a man's is shaped like a box (SEE DIAGRAM). what results is a gap that must be taken care of to keep the corset from being too loose up top. Also, no matter how good your forms are they can't squish and mold like the real thing. I'm pretty sure this is why many manufacturers are cautious.

Fixes

None of these fixes are the right or wrong way to go, it's just personal preference:

1 option is to squeeze the bottom of the ribcage in, forcing a feminine cone shape. This I think is the most popular option, and there's even products out there designed to do exactly that. The only downside is that it's usually painful after a short time.

Another option is to draft around the box - that is, make a corset that perfectly conforms to the male torso. The problem with that however, is that the corset loses some of it's feminine appeal because it looks like a male torso with breasts. Here's an example of a corset I did with this fix - again the pillow (I've gotta get a dress form) doesn't work the best, but you can see how the overall line changes.
http://pics.livejournal.com/_luminosity_/pic/0000ayr2/g2

Corsets with breast forms

No matter how well it fits at the rib-cage, there will always be fitting problems with the forms. Real breasts can fill in any gaps and can spill over the top a little if the fit isn't 100? perfect (i.e. person has gained/lost weight). Forms (except maybe birdseed) simply cannot mold this way. My biggest problem is the forms sliding toward the center. It's not a big problem, in fact it's very minor. But it is worth looking in to.

I think least problematic solution is to draft cups into the design. There are as many corsets out there with cups as without, and if the forms are measured precisely and an underwire is properly padded it should fit nicely. From a business standpoint, I would need the customer to loan me one of their forms, along with their best-fitting non-stretchy bra to use as references. I'd also want pictures from the front and side and measurements on exactly where the customer wears their forms.
For some people this is inpractical or simply not possible but for those who'd like the best possible fit, I'd like to give them that option.

I should mention that none of these are a big issue if the corset is done right and the pattern is drafted carefully, but I'd like to hear your opinions and experiences, especially gripes and complaints.

How many corsets do you own? How many custom and off-the-rack?

How long have you been wearing corsets?

What materials do you use for forms (if any)?

What are your Bust, Underbust (bra's underwire), and waist measurements?

How long do you typically wear a corset (a few minutes, all day, etc...)

Have you noticed any of the problems mentioned above? What
specifically? Does it happen with every corset? What would you change
about it? Anything you can say will be of great help

What aspects of a corset's fit are most important to you? fit? comfort? A
feminine look? Cost? Discreet fit?

And on a different line: If you were to buy a custom corset in the future would you prefer to see a few models with specific features - the convenience of having the guesswork done and only needing to make a few fabric and color choices? Or would you prefer to "build your own" - have the ability to customize every aspect of the corset. Of course you would not be left alone to do this, you would have answers and suggestions available

Thanks in advance for your replies! Anything you can think of that I haven't covered here is more than welcome. I'd like to be one of the few corsetiers that works with all clients, but specializes in TG (instead of the other way around) This will really help me gauge what people are looking for and what problems they encounter.
Thanks again:eyes:

[Toyah]

Odd one this I usually find that the bottom has this problem and even with quite tight lacing I still have a bit of a gut. The top problem I have only experianced once and 2 flecks sewn in the side at the top did the trick. A corset with a built in bra seems to be ideal, i would not have probs with forms moving in because I have an attachment method that works well.

[Ophelia D'Void]

In answer to some of your questions:

I own about 3 corsets, all off the rack (er, online). One I ordered too big (non returnable), and the other two are very decent steel boned, tight lacing corsets, one an underbust Leg Avenue (ya, ya, I know, but it's pretty good quality for the price), and the other is my pride and joy, a black leather with blue trimmed overbust by Alter Ego http://www.crossdressers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9060.

I also use one of Ayla's old corsets custom fit corsets from time to time (it's made to fit her, so the torso is super short, but it's only for training).

Although I've got a 36" chest and 35" waist (puts me in the realm of large, based on waist alone), I usually go with a medium, and the suck that puppy in until my eyes turn red. I don't notice any pain at all (slept with the underbust on fully cinched once), although there is a general sense of relief when its released. Eventually the idea behind corsets is that your floating ribs get "trained" to set in more, decreasing the appearance of a wide abdomen (helps in guy mode too).

Hmm, as far as breast forms, I use some silicone jobbies that I built myself a while back. They'd be roughly A/B cup, and are relatively hard set, so they're not squishy like birdseed, double stretched water balloons, or the pricy siloxane forms with a higher amount of hardener mixed into the silicone. So they roughly keep shape even with heavy cinching and even help to create a tiny bit of cleavage while they're at it. I usually wear my corsets over dresses anyways (if you're going to shell out the cash for a decent corset, make sure you let the world know), so I don't have to worry about breast forms becoming visible.

Hmm, as far as making a business out of corsetry, I actually had an idea that would be kinda revolutionary.... hmm, I'll PM you, don't want the world to know. Take care.

O

[Tristen Cox]

Alayna I don't have and have never worn a corset, however the breastform issue I have a suggestion for. A halter style top attached from the bust up with somewhat soft but movement resistant cups that will hold the forms naturally without squeezing them or mushing them to death. This would still look good and functionally hold the forms apart/in their respective positions without damage to them, as well as provide full coverage so you would not see them exposed. Of course these would have to be custom made for each persons chest, along with all the other special measures.

That's probably why a lot of manufacturers don't want to go their. When you have to put that much work into each item the profit goes down. Technique and co-ordinating a system of making measures simpler may be a solution but that's down to trial and error. You'll be rich if you can keep the labor down and sell, sell, sell!

One of these days I'm going to bring my six foot self out that way and get you to measure me for one. But we'll discuss business later ;)

[Natalie x]

How many corsets do you own? How many custom and off-the-rack?
None yet, so I am really interested in your work, and hope to get one before too long. My choice would be a waist cincher, no bust and without suspenders. I want a corset that will squeeze my waist to 26" and push the excess upwards to help create "boobs" and downwards to enlarge my hips. Basically, I want a magic corset that will turn me into a woman!

What materials do you use for forms (if any)?
I have two, both cheapies. One pair is solid silicone, doesn't flex much but has good weight, shape and nipples. I prefer my other pair, which are chicken fillets which I fill with water ballons; these feel and look more realistic.

What are your Bust, Underbust (bra's underwire), and waist measurements?
Bust: I go for 40B (UK) Underbust: 36" Waist: 31"

How long do you typically wear a corset (a few minutes, all day, etc...)
I would like to be able to wear it all day


What aspects of a corset's fit are most important to you? fit? comfort? A
feminine look? Cost? Discreet fit?
1 Feminine look; 2 Discreet fit; 3 Comfort. (However, I am on a tight budget, so cost is important, and high cost could prevent me from getting a corset at all)

And on a different line: If you were to buy a custom corset in the future would you prefer to see a few models with specific features - the convenience of having the guesswork done and only needing to make a few fabric and color choices? Or would you prefer to "build your own" - have the ability to customize every aspect of the corset. Of course you would not be left alone to do this, you would have answers and suggestions available
I like the idea of seeing all the options first

Hope this helps