New corset

[Alayna]

I thought it might be interesting to post process I use when making corsets. There seems to be a lot of interests on this subject (previous post)http://www.crossdressers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1342
If there's enough interest in this I'll update it to the very end. So, the very beginning: First I take a buttload of measurements, although this is the 4th pattern I've drafted for myself so I already have a pretty good idea. Then I transfer those onto paper giving me my pattern pieces like this....I'm in the middle of tracing those pieces onto heavier paper and adding seam allowances. More to come....

[odelay]

Oh, definatly keep this thread going. I'd love to see the process myself.

[NewShy21NJmtf]

I need all the help I can get, please do show us how it's done.

Stephanie

[clarissa3d]

You do such a fantastic job at it..

three cheers for Alanya HIP HIP HIP HOoRRAAA

oh and thank you ;)


Clarissa

[Tristen Cox]

I'd very much like to see the process as well :D . Could use the advice too. Another vote from me

[Alayna]

my internet's been busted the last couple days! Looks like I've got a lot of posting to catch up on. I've re-traced the pattern pieces and started to cut amd interface the fabric - I'll try and post pics tonight...

[Alayna]

The next thing after the pattern is drafted is to trace it onto heavier paper and add seam allowances (I use 5/8") like this

[Alayna]

I'm trying something new with this corset - instead of sewing the fabric to another piece of heavier, more stable fabric, I'm using fusable interfacing. I iron it directly to the fabric after cutting it (again from the pattern pieces) and then cut the final piece out. This will keep it from shifting and stretching while I sew it. I'll do the same thing with the lining (yep, that's 4 total layers, not including boning channels and binding)

[Alayna]

I'm in kind of a dilemma right now - I'm not sure which to use for the binding and boning channels. I've narrowed it down to black satin, white satin, and PVC. Here's some pics of each - the most popular one gets used...BTW, sorry about the image sizes - I'm whiddling them down:p

[odelay]

I vote the PVC :D

[suzi_cd]

I'd go the the PVC too ;)

suzi

xxxx

[prisscilla]

in response to your link
http://www.crossdressers.com/forums...read.php?t=1342

absolutley ravishing !!!!
beautiful gourgeous
you are a Goddess!!!

[Tristen Cox]

Cool! :D I like them all but i suppose pvc is the most visually attractive.

[suzi_cd]

CoolI like them all but i suppose pvc is the most visually attractive.

Its more than just visually attractive - it feels wonderful too :cool:

suzi

xxxx

[Alayna]

hmm, PVC seems the obvious choice so far - anybody else want to jump in? I'll try and post something new soon, I've been a little sidetracked lately what with a few really wacky days at work (I work all hours of the day and night - sometimes I start at noon, sometimes at midnight) and I'm in the middle of a total overhaul of my living space. Bear with me, I can't wait to see the end result so it won't be too long - thinking of how it could turn out (that's could, not necessarily will:D ) is making me giddy! For now, I'll leave you with some adorable designs - courtesy Romantasy.comhttp://www.romantasy.com/all-galleries/thumbnails/thumb_Galsheripurple.jpg (http://www.romantasy.com/all-galleries/gallery-html/ballroom-Galsheripurple.htm)http://www.romantasy.com/all-galleries/images/pinksnake.jpg (http://javascript<b></b>:void(0))http://www.romantasy.com/all-galleries/thumbnails/thumb_spiderweb2.jpg (http://www.romantasy.com/all-galleries/gallery-html/ballroom-spiderweb2.htm)[/url][url="http://javascript<b></b>:void(0)"]http://www.romantasy.com/all-galleries/images/Sherifront.jpg (http://javascript<b></b>:void(0))

[odelay]

Oooooh, when are you going to make me one like those? ;) hehe

[Alayna]

Whew! I'm finally done cleaning and I've got a few days off from work to recouperate! Now I can get back to the work I want to do;) . I'm just about done cutting all the pieces out. Thanks for being patient y'all. I'll post pics when I have some sewn together (hopefully tomorrow night)

[Tristen Cox]

Yes I was wondering how things were coming along lately. Will be watching the progress.

Thank you for sharing this info with us.

[Alayna]

I've sewn all the pieces together except the center front (which holds the busk) and the center back (which holds the grommets). I'll attach those pieces after I've installed the hardware - learned that one the hard way the first time:o . I'm not gonna post pics of the lining because it's the same process, but it really does have to be done the same way. One definite must is that it has to be exactly the same size and sewn exactly in the same spots or it will bubble and fold (if that makes sense) while the corset's being worn.

[Alayna]

Notice the direction the seams are pressed. I don't know if it makes a huge difference, but it does seem to add a little strength. Plus, this is the way I've seen it in all my patterns. Technically, to make it nice and neat I should sew a "flat-felled seam" which is basically chopping the inside seam a bit and then folding the outside seam over it to make a clean line. I don't like this personally, especially with thicker materials, because it adds unnecessary bulk that can be seen from the outside. It doesn't really matter anyway because the interfacing keeps the fabric from fraying and It'll be covered up by the lining. That's all for now, I'll post how to install the busk and grommets next time. Till then corset lovers!

[Alayna]

Alright I'm off my ass now and ready to finish this thing off. The one I have posted up here ended up not working. The interfacing was just a little to thin and didn't keep the fabric from moving, plus it kinda showed through the front. So now it's become the core of another one. The next step would be to sew the busk to piece a. sew the lining to it, but with the loop side you have to make gaps for them to fit in between the outer fabric/core and lining. I used an extra piece of fabric under the lining for strength because this pink satin is pretty weak.

For the stud side, which is not shown because I sneezed while cutting some seam allowances on the other side and cut right into a panel:rolleyes: :mad:, mark where the studs go on the fabric and then use an awl to separate the fibers enough to push them through. If you cut it or use a hole punch be sure to use an anti-fray liquid like Fraycheck, but I still wouldn't recommend it unless you're using leather or PVC.

Sew piece A to piece B, but don't sew the lining to it. I think the busk is the hardest thing to sew on a corset: you have to use a zipper foot, and you have to baste it before hand. Basting is just a quick stitch (I go by hand) to stabilize the fabric while you sew. Use a thread that's easy to see, because you'll remove the basting after you sew it.

[Alayna]

Piece F is simple until you get to the grommets! Sew the front to the lining, then sew 3 channels, channel 1 and 3 should be 5/8 to fit the 1/2 steel boning. Channel 2 should be a little wider than the grommets. Mine are usually 1/2" to 5/8".

[Alayna]

Now it's time for some fun stuff: cut 10 2" strips of fabric at least as long as the corset. Feed it into a 1" bias tape maker (about $3 at any fabric store - looks like a wedge) and press it. I think it's easier to feed the boning tape through with it. Boning tape is a tube of tightly weaved cotton pressed flat. It's very strong and keeps the boning from poking through the fabric over time.

[Alayna]

now you can attach the channels to the corset if you're sure you don't need to make any other alterations. If you're not sure, wait until the end to do this. I've used a variation of this pattern 4 times before so I know it works. Wherever there's a seam, stitch an extra line on top of the fold so it doesn't accidentally rip apart under stress. The boning channels help support it but it's still a good idea. You have to do it if you're not using channels and instead are putting the boning in the interior.

Stitch the channels as close to 1/16" from the edge as possible. Too close to the edge and it won't hold. Too close to the center, and the boning won't fit. Unless you're using spring steel (the flat stiff stuff) through the whole corset, which you shouldn't really do since it makes the corset unbearable, sew another line down the middle of the channel. This will separate it to hold 2 pieces of 1/4" spiral steel (the flexible stuff that looks like a crushed spring). Of course you can use one piece too if you want - in that case you should use a 1/2" bias tape maker and cut 1" strips.

One more thing, is anyone interested in making satin sheets? They're very easy to do and if you hit a fabric sale at the right time, very cheap! I was able to get some clearance satin that's pretty high quality for $3 per yard. If you do a queen size fitted sheet, double-sided flat sheet, and 2 or 3 pillows, at that price + thread is only $40-$50. The only drawback is that you have a seam down the middle, but if you do it double-sided you can't even feel it and it's not that visible. If anyone wants to try this, let me know and I'll post another thread for it.

[GraceUSA]

Thanks for sharing this Alayna. I'm on the verge of going back into sewing myself and your work is inspiring.

Grace

[Alayna]

Here's some more stuff - It doesn't actually take me this long to make a corset, but I keep overloading myself with projects that slow me down (of course I also had to redo a couple panels on this one which took some extra time:rolleyes: ).


The grommets are probably the hardest thing to line up evenly and smoothly. The only way to do it is practice (or have your local fabric store do it for you:D ). This corset used 32 grommets and there are 2 pieces to each one - a washer and another piece that is pounded flat over the washer. This is a pretty standard tool which consists of a cutter (the long tube), an anvil with a ring to hold the washer so it doesn't get crushed while hammering, and a piece that molds the 2 pieces together.... You can't use a metal hammer - it's too harsh and deforms the grommets. There are kits out there for about $20 that have this stuff and a few grommets too.

Some people don't like to use the cutter piece since punching a hole in the fabric weakens it, but I find that if you separate the fabric fibers it contorts the piece and makes the grommets that much harder to line up right. The only time I manipulate instead of cut is when I'm installing the stud side of the busk.

By the way, there's no real order on what to do first/last - but I wouldn't stitch the back piece to the corset until after the grommets are set. Same goes for the busk piece.

[Alayna]

The thing that makes a corset so strong is the boning. There's spiral steel (the coil stuff), spring steel (the white pieces) and plastic. Most things with boning use the plastic stuff (prom dresses, bustiers), but it's totally useless when making a real corset. The pieces should be about 1/2" shorter than the channels (after the seam allowance has been cut away). If they're too long they'll punch through the fabric after a while or poke you constantly. Use 1 piece of spring steel next to each busk piece and 2 pieces of spring steel around the grommets to give them support. The stuff I have here I cut myself, as you can buy it by the yard and cover it with "u-tips" which cover the sharp ends. This is the last time I'm cutting it myself though - it takes too much time and effort, Besides, even though the pre-cut pieces are only available in 1/2" incriments, it's okay to be 1/8" or 1/4" (at the most) off. It won't be that big a difference.

Next I'll show how to do the trim and lacing. I'll also get into how to put it on and break it in. THat's probably the most important thing of all, whether you're making one yourself or just bought a new one. If you don't do it right the first few times it will never fit right.

[Felicity]

I have one of those grommet tools and have used them. One thing I heard, and learned to be true later is this: If at all possible, do not use the cutter of fabric, or break any of the threads where the hole is. Instead, spread the fabric threads apart with something tapered. A golf tee works to start, then the taper of the grommet tool. This wasy you retain the full strength of the fabric, and things don't fall apart when pulled tight. You can make some corsets that cinch real well this way.

Of course the cutter is needed for things like leather, but you want to make an undersized hole and spead it too.

[Felicity]

Thanx for this thread. I too have been following it as I am a corset lover. I have two fabric and two leather corsets.

[Tristen Cox]

Alayna.. good to see more of the *thread*
(Tristen bows to you)

:cool: pop back on top

[jon]

pvc corset everytime. looks and feels great

[StephanieCD]

How I'd love to be able to make my own... you're good!

[Sweet Susan]

That was really interesting. I've been tossing sewing around in my mind for some time, now. I wonder what I could do, or if I even have the patience to do it. I'd be most interested in creating/making lingerie.

[Julie York]

Amazing stuff. I never thought engineering could be so much fun!

I now know why they cost so much. All that work!

[Rachel Ann]

This courtesy of my friend Delzoup:


Always remember the golden rule: First shoes, then corset.

[Alayna]

Wow, it's been 2 months since my last post. Where has the time gone?....into corsets! Here's one I recently finished for my sister...

[Alayna]

...and one I just finished for me:D;)

[Alayna]

Quote; Always remember the golden rule: First shoes, then corset.

Too true!

I suppose I should finish this little how-to. I'm glad I could get it done in a timely manner:rolleyes:. Actually the only things left are to attach the trim and lacing. Both are simple, just do the same thing you did with the boning channels and sew it to the top.

As for the lacing, there's a few ways to do it but I really only see 2 often enough to mention. The first is the shoelace method: It's easy and familiar which is good if you're not used to reaching all the way up your back to tie your shoes:p, but you can't close the corset all the way (if you so desire). The other way is the x method. I don't know if that's what it's really called but it works for me. Just lace it up in x's alternating underneath and over the back. It's a little tricky to lace up at first but it holds better and you can close the corset all the way. Plus it just looks cool!

[Tristen Cox]

You do some amazing work Alayna I'm impressed! Lovely corsets. I really should bug you to make one for me (lace up), well I'm sure you're busy with work and all. Definitly good hands. Thanks for the updates I was begining to wonder where you had disappeared to. I think Samantha is wondering too, might want to send her a message. Again, nice job!

Love
Tristen

[Kassandra]

Alayna, you rock!

I've always dreamed of having a corset. If I ever do get one, I hope it looks as good as the ones you've made.

I sew only a little bit, but if I could I'd like to try something like this.

BTW: You mentioned that you started by taking a lot of measurements. I can figure out a couple, like waist, hips, bust. But are there any others? Or is there a technique to taking the measurements? Also, if how did you get started making corsets in the first place? Where did you learn? Do you know of places on the Internet to look?

Sorry, got carried away. I didn't mean to babble. :p

Any information would really be appreciated.

Thanks so much for posting this facinating information! I really am impressed!

Tris

[Alayna]

Not at all, I'm happy to share what I've learned:)

Actually, I started sewing really simple garments and just worked my way up to it. Of course this way I've had to do TONS of trial and error. I've probably got 3 failed corsets to every 1 success! Most of the info I got from Simplicity and Laughing Moon patterns and tips on the internet.

As for measurements...Measure everything! The vertical ones are the most important - such as waist to underbust/bust/underarm/hips etc... I base all my vertical measurements from the waist. When I take measurements I do 18 for women and 21 for men - breastforms don't mold as well as breasts obviously so I take 3 extra measurements above the bust to be sure (especially if you want to hide them under the corset). Above all, do a muslin before you start cutting into your pretty fabrics and make the needed adjustments.

[samanthajay]

hey alayna nice garments. like to see ya in them wait i think i did yaowza :D

[Sharon]

I'm digging through the cushions in search of loose change Alayna. When do you start taking orders?

[Alayna]

I'm making 4 others right now as gifts and demos for stores and if those work out with no problems I might just start something web based. Of course there's about a million dresses and chemises and such that I've wanted to make for a while now. *sigh* so little time:D

[StephanieCD]

Lemme know hun, I'll make you a gorgeous site for some *ehem* barter ;)

Nice work!

[Alayna]

Wow, this one took so much time and effort! The red and gold trim took 7 or 8 times more work than the entire corset! THis is the one I made for my other sister and I'm glad it turned out so well (although stuffing it with a pillow doesn't really do it justice:p). I'm too tired to edit the pics right now so it's hard to see the sides well, but here it is:

[Alayna]

...and the back. I think the back protector turned out really well in trying to blend it with the rest of the corset. I'm not too sure about the lacing though, it may be too busy.

[Holly]

Alayna,

No doubt about it... you're gifted with needle and thread! I hope you take Stephanie up on her offer to build you a website and go on line with your wares. I'm sure many of the girls here would want to get them. Of course, we would get the "good sister" discount, right?;)

[Sharon]

I have to agree Alayna. That looks as good or better than any corset I've ever seen. It's absolutely beautiful!

[Tristen Cox]

I'm thinking of a golden ballroom... The dance, the glances, and that CORSET. Excellent work! Hey if she doesn't like it can I have it? No! ..Dammit :p

[Alayna]

You're all too sweet:o

I'm glad you like the looks - the only things right now that are holding me back are that I want to make sure I can make a structurally sound (and comfortable) design for anybody.... and I need a VACATION!

I'm so burned out right now it's not even funny. I've been working at my job 30-40 hours a week, plus doing corset stuff at least 40 hours a week. I'm facing the possibility of getting laid off from a job I've been at for 1 1/2 years, while at the beginning of the process of trying to buy a house! I'm not getting along with my dad to the point where I'm ready to give him the bitching-out session of his life, and I have to work the next 8 days straight while hopefully finishing 2 more (fortunately very simple) corsets in that time. Tristen, can you make the surprised smiley's head explode for me?:eek:

Whew, I just needed to vent right there - thanks for listening:cool:. It's not as bad as I made it sound just then, nor am I complaining. I'm just.. well - burned out. I can't wait for the 17th! I fly to Seattle to visit my sister (and give her the corset) and eat sushi and go shopping. Then on my birthday we head north to Whistler/Blackcomb for a week straight of my favorite thing - SNOWBOARDING! Woo hoo! I already feel better;)

[Tristen Cox]

You're all too sweet:o Tristen, can you make the surprised smiley's head explode for me?:eek:

This one:http://www.geocities.com/tristencx/icons/confused68.gif ~or~ this one: http://www.geocities.com/tristencx/icons/pop20corn7mp.gif

[Alayna]

!Sweet! The microwave one for sure. Set on 80% for 3 weeks;)